Driving to Toledo is challenging what with the deteriorating Hummingbird “Highway”. But for select events such as this magnificent cultural presentation by a Mexican dance company at a real Maya Temple is well worth it.
Dances with Mayas at Lubaantun could be a new event on its own rather than part of the annual Toledo Cacao Fest that runs during the month of May. The festival, food fair, Maya Dance re-enactments are that good. When it’s not raining that is.
Driving from the City of Belmopan the traveler can leave at 8:30 and be at Big Falls by 11. Add on one hour if you are driving from Belize City or San Ignacio-Santa Elena. It is a long journey not made any better by the once beautiful Hummingbird Highway that the government has allowed to deteriorate over the past ten years. The highway’s safety markings have washed away a long time ago. The road’s top coat is all about gone, and overall the highway has come down to the standards of a normal road here – lots of potholes and vandalized or missing road signage. The Tourist Board under previous owners used to do a good job of erecting signage and maintaining same but now not. Their efforts are elsewhere, like Apocalypse Tourism.
The portion of the highway at Alta Vista in the Pomona Valley is the worst, with many potholes that are desultorily filled with red clay as a desperate repair that gets washed out in a jiffy by the next day’s rain. From the glass half full perspective, driving down south is a challenge and adventure.
Lubaantun -How To Get There
Getting to the Maya ruin at Lubaantun can be tricky for the first time visitor. At Big Falls which is the large village just before reaching Punta Gorda you will see a big sign This Way To Lubaantun. Ignore it. This is the long and rough way in. Seven miles through rutted and hilly roads that will shake out your fillings or worse. This road takes you through the villages of Silver Creek and San Miguel – real quaint Maya villages. So if you have time to take it slow and meander through these villages this may be to your liking. Caveat – rains. The Belize rainy season historically runs from June to November which is also the official hurricane season. But changing weather patterns often bring rains as early as May. And Toledo is the area of of the country with the highest annual rainfall.
Most travelers will prefer going to the cut-off or intersection at Big Falls marked by the Shell gas station which is on your right if you are heading south towards Punta Gorda. Take the right and head for San Pedro Colombia – a mere two miles over nice paved highway – this leg of the Southern Highway is known by locals as the road to Jalacte. Then two more miles over a reasonably well maintained dirt road into the village itself. Take your time or you will zip right past the cut-off leading to the village. San Pedro Colombia has a couple convenience shops, comedores and friendly Maya folks who will point out the way to Lubaantun in case the signs have fallen down – again.
Check our review of the Toledo Cacao Festival at Lubaantun.