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Belizeans from western Belize are fond of boasting that "the west is best!" And they sure have a lot to be proud about. Besides being home to the nation's new capital of Belmopan, the Cayo District, covering some two thousand square miles of verdant landscape, has some of the most scenic attractions in Belize: clear, meandering rivers, lush jungles, green hillsides, thundering waterfalls, huge cave systems, two of Belize's most important Mayan ruins, and a pine ridge forest just waiting for you to explore and experience. It's rich with wildlife and a favored destination for ecotourists. The Cayo district is the Belizean frontier (you'll be able to do more horseback riding than in any other part of the country). It's reached via the Western Highway, which begins on the outskirts of Belize City at the intersection of Central American Boulevard and Cemetery Road. A one-hour ride from Belize City gets you to Belmopan, whose downtown market area is a pulsating, thriving bus terminal with connections to every part of Belize. Between Belmopan and San Ignacio, one will pass the modern-day Mennonite
settlement of Spanish Lookout. Both English and Spanish are widely spoken
in Cayo, which is home to large populations of Mestizos (Spanish Maya),
Chinese, Creoles, Lebanese, Guatemalans, Mennonites and Mayas. As with
every in Belize, smaller groups of all other ethnic groups live there,
like the Garifuna and East Indians. It is the country's second largest
district, with a population of some fifty-four thousand people. Cottage Resorts in the Cayo District Belmopan and Nearby Tourist Attractions Belize Department of Archeology Ix Chel Farms and the Don Eligio Panti Medicinal Trail Rio Frio Cave and Nature Trail Caracol: Capital of the Mayan World Cottage Resorts in the Cayo District Cayo is becoming a major tourist center, as an increasing number of small cottage resorts are built in the jungles and along the rivers. Many of these resorts are located in or near the Chiquibul Wilderness, including Chaa Creek, the first resort built in the Cayo district, with its own 300-acre nature reserve and a gourmet restaurant. Chaa Creek also runs a campsite near the Macal River. Chaa Creek is located next door to Ix Chel Farms and the Panti Medicinal Trail. Another attractive and more moderately priced cottage resort is Nabitunich, which offers stone cottages with tiled floors and thatched roofs, a dining room and bar. The resort is on 400 acres of land near the river, and is a short walk to the entrance to Xunantunich. Nearby, the Log Cab-Inns and Tours, a small family owned ecotourism lodge, offers comfortable cabins, dining, nature trails and guided tours. Another attractive cottage resort is Maya Mountain Lodge, which offers comfortable cottages, an excellent dining room, and a full package of excursion packages. And, for a real jungle experience, try Black Rock River Lodge. Most resorts in Cayo can arrange a broad range of activities and tours. Belmopan and nearby tourist attractions Belmopan, located approximately 50 miles west of Belize City and in the geographical center of the country, was built after Hurricane Hattie devastated Belize City in 1961. The government wanted a hurricane-proof capital, and in the mid-1970's, developed new housing at affordable prices to lure government employees and other Belizeans away from Belize City. Such movement has been slow, with many Belize-City and Cayo-based employees commuting daily to Belmopan. It is only now, after three successive years of hurricanes between 1998 - 2001, that many Belize City, caye and U.S.-based Belizeans are taking up mortgage programs to own, in many instances, a second
home in hurricane-proof Belmopan. Additionally, since the influx of Central
American refugees which began in the mid 1980's, Belmopan's immediate
outskirts have grown considerably with large populations of Central Americans
in surrounding areas like Las Flores, Salvapan, Armenia and Valley of
Peace. Belmopan, recently designated a city, is still relatively quiet
at night, but during the day it is bustling with government employees
and business visitors. Belmopan is the seat of government, with all Ministries
headquartered in Mayan-style architectural edifices that surround the
marketplace and major bus terminal.
The University of Belize, established in August 2000, has its main campus in Belmopan and is also the home of the Regional Language Center which caters to students from Central America, Taiwan and the Caribbean (its current strength is in programs offering English and Spanish as Second languages). Visitors with an interest in Mayan antiquities should visit the Department of Archaeology. The Archives Department is also located in Belmopan.
Belmopan has three moderately priced hotels that cater to business
travelers: the Belmopan Convention Hotel, the Bullfrog Inn and the Circle
A Lodge. The closet resort to Belmopan is the Banana Bank Ranch, a rustic
resort on the grounds of what used to be a working cattle ranch, with
frontage along the Belize River. One of its owners, Carolyn Carr, one
of Belize's premier artists; you will see her paintings all over Belize.
Guanacaste Park is reachable by turning right instead of left at the Belmopan turnoff. It was officially dedicated on Earth Day, April 22, 1990. Guanacaste is a 56-acre nature reserve that is only a few miles from Belmopan at the conjunction of the Belize River and Roaring Creek. The park is named after a 100-foot guanacaste tree growing near the southwestern edge of the reserve. It's home to many birds and flowers, including bromeliads and orchids. Visitors may also see jaguarondi, kinkajou, paca, armadillo, iguana, deer and opossum. There are several nature trails that lead to the creek and river. It's a good place to stop for a swim and there are picnic tables, benches and restrooms; no overnight camping facilities available. The park and visitors center are maintained by the Belize Audubon Society.. West of Belmopan, the highway begins to climb out of the valley and
the air gets noticeably cooler. It's a beautiful drive along rolling
green countryside dotted with small, picturesque villages, and, as you
get further west, large tracts of cultivated farmland, many of which
belong to the Mennonite community; you'll also see fields of cattle
grazing. 72 miles from Belize city are the twin cities Santa Elena and
the larger town of San Ignacio, separated With a population of 13,260 people, San Ignacio falls slightly behind Orange Walk Town's 13,483 pop. However, it is a mecca for Belizean eco-toursim. San Ignacio offers a convenient location for trips to Belize's most visited Mayan Ruin, Xunantunich, located in the nearby village of Succotz. Excursions to waterfalls, caves and attractions in the Pine Ridge forest area are easily arranged from hotels in San Ignacio, whether it's the larger San Ignacio Resort Hotel which also has a swimming pool/nightclub and conference facilities, or any of the smaller downtown hotels. Moderately priced hotels include the Piache Hotel, located at the top of a hill overlooking San Ignacio and a short walk from the Cahal Pech Maya Ruin. Besides comfortable accommodations, the Piache also offers tour services. Visitors seeking information and an inexpensive meal can visit Eva' Restaurant, Bar and Tourist Information on downtown Burn's Avenue; several other great inexpensive restaurants with a wonderful array of local dishes include Martha's Hotel and Restaurant, and Erva's Restaurant. Shoppers whose schedules do not permit a trip across the border need look no further than the Belizean Arts and Crafts Store in San Ignacio, various gift shops at hotels, or, visit Caesar's Arts and Crafts depot, well stocked with a variety of unusual and traditional gift items. The San Ignacio Resort Hotel also has a Green Iguana conservation program, near the riverside edge of town. The hotel has also spearheaded the Guana Conservation Club, and iguana eggs found in the wild are incubated, hatched after 90 days, then released at nine to twelve months. Night life in Cayo is quite active. Newly opened is the Princess Casino in the San Ignacio Resort Hotel; Karaoke and nightclubbing with live band music is also readily available on weekends. Cahal Pech San Ignacio is a pretty town and new houses continue to be built on
the surrounding hillside. Atop a hill overlooking the town, sits the
Cahal Pech Ruin. The ruin site also houses a small museum, and is walking
distance from San Ignacio. Also sharing the hill top and its panoramic
view is the Cahal Pech Village Hotel , tavern and restaurant. A large
and beautiful mural depicting a Mayan ceremony was painted on one wall
of the tavern by Pedro Cruz, a talented local artist. It is worth a
trip to the tavern to see the beautiful Cahal Pech Tavern Mural. Located only eight miles west of San Ignacio, Xunantunich was the first
major Mayan ruin in Belize to be excavated and made available for tourist
visits. Visitors cross the river on a ferry - with their car if they
don't want to hike the additional mile to the ruin site (note: bus tours
are readily available from most hotels). The ferry is free, but tipping
the operator is acceptable and welcome. Most tours of the Cayo district
include a visit to Xunantunich. The name means "Stone Lady."
Xunantunich is often referred to as "Maiden A climb to the top of El Castillo rewards you with an incredible vista of the Peten rainforest, the Maya Mountains and the Cayo District. You will see well across the border into Guatemala. Bring your camera and binoculars; flocks of toucans and parrots constantly fly to and from the treetops below. Link to the Nabintunich page to view a photograph of Xunantunich. Close to the Guatemalan border is El Pilar, north of Xunantunich. This
Mayan site covers over 100 acres and is now an archaeological reserve.
To tour El Pilar, one takes the Bullet Tree road out of San Ignacio,
through the village of Bullet Tree, and across a bridge, turning left.
Annually, a Mayan celebration is held in April which features food,
music and dance at the El Pilar site. The 300 square mile Mountain Pine Ridge Forest Reserve is reached via
the Georgeville turnoff at mile 65 on the Western Highway. After wending
your way through miles of tropical jungle, you suddenly find yourself
in a forest of tall, thin pine trees growing out of sandy dirt, grasses
and wildflowers. The Resorts located within the reserve are: Five Sisters Eco-Tourism Lodge,
which overlooks Privassion Creek and walking distance to five small
waterfalls; Pine Ridge Lodge; Hidden Valley Inn; and the more expensive
Blancaneaux Lodge. Hidden Valley Falls, also known as Thousand Foot Falls (although the
falls actually plunge 1,500 feet) is the tallest waterfall in Central
America. There are hiking trails and a picnic area; the views are spectacular.
It is approximately nine miles from the reserve's main entrance east
to the falls; this road is often impassable in the rainy season and
no one should attempt it without a four-wheel drive vehicle. About eight miles southwest of the top of the falls, the road crosses the Rio On River. The giant rocks through which this trail passes create little waterfalls amidst deep pools. There are picnic tables and restrooms (the outhouse type) available. This is a great location for a swim and picnic, and a visit to the pools is often included in local tours put on by the cottage resorts. Here is a Photograph of swimmers enjoying a mini-waterfall at the Rio On Pools. Rio Frio Cave and Nature Trail The Rio Frio Cave is the largest river cave in Belize, extending for half a mile. The cave is easily reached from the road or via the Rio Frio Nature Trail a few miles away. This cave is inaccessible during the rainy season, and damp even in the dry. Visitors should be wearing sturdy, non-slip shoes. It gets darker and darker as you go further into the cave; flashlights are a necessity if you want to proceed more than a few hundred feet. You may notice the signs that one of Belize's many beautiful jungle cats has frequented the cave. The road leading to Hidden Valley Falls, the Rio On Pools and the Rio Frio Cave can also take adventurous visitors on to the partially excavated Mayan city of Caracol, the largest Mayan ruin site in Belize. Archaeologists estimate that Caracol contained 35,000 buildings, three times the numbers found in Guatemala's Tikal, and covers five square miles. It is estimated that the population of Caracol was over 150,000. Since 1985, an archaeology team, led by Arlen and Diane Chase, have
been excavating Caracol. Since August 2000, the team, together with
the Department of Archaeology, began a four-year Tourism Development
Project which upgrades the access road and maintains a Visitor's Center
and restroom facilities. As a result, the dirt road is now passable
during the rainy The Chase's excavation findings have challenged many previously held notions about Mayan civilization and culture. From hieroglyphics found on Caracol, the Chases have determined that Caracol's army defeated the army of Tikal in AD 562, and became the dominant regional power. The Chases also have an answer to the question that has plagued historians and archaeologists since the Mayan ruins began to be uncovered - what happened to the Mayans? Why did they abandon their cities and disappear into the jungles? As a result of their research at Caracol, the Chases believe that warfare became less of a ritual preserved for the elite class and began to permeate the lives of ordinary Mayans, causing them to flee the cities. The Chases also found women entombed in what were clearly royal tombs Besides the attraction of the ruins, Caracol is in the middle of miles
of uninhabited virgin rainforest and is considered to be prime location
for observing every variety of Belizean jungle creatures; take a hike
along one of the wildlife trails and you may just see a mot mot or ocelot!
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Travelers
going west from Belize City should be sure to allow at least an hour
for a visit to the delightful Belize Zoo and Tropical Education Center.
If you are an animal lover, the zoo is not to be missed. It is at Milepost
30 on the Western Highway, about a half hour before Belmopan. A short
distance past the zoo turnoff is another nature reserve, the Monkey
Bay Wildlife Sanctuary. 
by
the Macal River and Belize's only suspension bridge, the Hawksworth
Bridge. Novelo's Bus makes regular runs between Belize City and San
Ignacio, as well as further west to the border with Guatemala at Benque
Viejo del Carmen. A plan to build an airstrip in San Ignacio has still
not yet come to fruition; however, charters can arrange to land at the
airstrip in nearby Central Farm. 
of the Rock." It is believed to have been built sometime during
150 - 900 A.D. It contains three ceremonial plazas surrounded by small
house mounds, and one of the tallest Maya structures in Belize - a 135
foot structure known as El Castillo. If you visit Xunantunich with a
knowledgeable local guide, he or she may give you a demonstration of
the degree of engineering skill of the Mayas who built this incredible
edifice. You will be able to hear words spoken by people standing in
certain sections of the plaza hundreds of feet below you.
Mountain Pine Ridge ecosystem is found nowhere else in Central America.
The air is cool, and there are many birds and sometimes large numbers
of butterflies. The area has many sections of whitewater rivers (a few
intrepid adventurers have attempted rafting expeditions; much of the
time they had to carry their boats rather than ride in them), waterfalls
and cave systems.
season,
except when conditions are extreme. Visitors are welcome, and no permit
is required; note, though, that no camping is allowed on the site or
any of the archaeology sites managed by the Department of Archaeology.
Most local travel agents can arrange for guided tours, as can the resorts
in the Cayo District. Visitors can also just show up and take a tour
on their own; a four wheel drive vehicle in good shape is recommended.
Several great trails are now established, ranging from bird watching,
to flora and fauna, to wildlife sightings. Some resorts offer trips
to Caracol on horseback. Visitors are advised to take in their own food
and drinking water. 
.
Anthropologists had previously assumed that women played only minor
roles in Mayan society, and had even decided that the females represented
in Mayan artwork were really males. The findings at Caracol have changed
the nature of the debate about Mayan society.