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Belize City - Getting There
Belize City

Belize Zoo and Tropical Education Center

Monkey Bay Wildlife Sanctuary

Altun Ha Mayan Ruin Site

Crooked Tree Wildlife Sanctuary and Village

Bermudian Landing Community Baboon Sanctuary

 

Belize City - Getting There

The Belize District is the largest, with a population of over seventy-four thousand. Belize City itself is no longer the nation's capital, but it is still the largest city in Belize, with a population of just under fifty thousand. It offers the visitor an unusual combination of rustic, old-fashioned Caribbean charm and bustling modernity. Additionally, the steady rise of cruise tourism has changed the face of areas of downtown Belize City in recent years.

The country's largest tourist town, San Pedro Ambergris Caye, is located in the Belize District (see separate entry), as well as the famous Mayan ruin of Altun Ha, the Belize Zoo and well-known wildlife sanctuaries. The Phillip Goldson International Airport is located ten miles from downtown, in the neighboring village of Ladyville and several international airlines provide daily flights. The country's largest municipal airport and water taxi connections to all major cayes are located in downtown Belize City. Bus transportation is available hourly and half hourly during peak times to all districts.

The Belize District is the heart of Kriol (Creole) culture and some of its villages are as typically Kriol as one can get: Burrell Boom, Isabella Bank, Rancho Dolores and Lemonal are some of the distinctive Kriol communities that exist in the heart of the Belize River Valley. Gales Point Manatee, the district's southernmost village, still retains some of the typical Kriol cultural practices like Sambai dancing, Anancy story telling under huge mahogany trees, and bramming. Belize City itself originated as a logging camp and export center for mahogany in the 1600's. Naturally, because it is the country's largest urban area, one finds all cultural types and mixtures in the city - Kriol, Garifuna, Mestizo, (a mix of Maya and Spanish) commonly referred to as Spanish, Chinese, Lebanese, Hindu and the original East Indian descendants and Maya.

Historic Belize City

The Belize River meanders through the middle of the city; and twice a day, the city's swing bridge closes for about 20 minutes to allow sail boats to pass. There are many traditional street vendors selling fruits, vegetables, arts and crafts in the city's public squares. In recent years, the cruise tourism industry has changed the face of the downtown Fort George area on the north side of the river, particularly on weekdays when at times up to three or four ships dock. This area, already distinctive for its colonial architecture, now is also the bustling center for dozens of tour guides, craft persons and other vendors who have set up in the area around a picturesque tourism village which sits on the site of the former Customs Wharf area. This area has high security and is well-maintained with good food, trained souvenir vendors, duty free shops and the like. Tour operators whisk away interested tourists to day trips at surrounding sanctuaries and Mayan ruin sites and snorkeling sites.

For those who want to tour historic Belize City, guides are available, and as this is the heart of the old capital and still the country's business and commercial center, visitors who want to walk the streets are encouraged to stay on Albert Street (southside of the Swing Bridge) and Queen Street (the continuation of Albert Street but north of the Swing Bridge). Recent challenges posed by the congestion caused by the influx of dozens of artisans and local competition for the tourists' attention and sales has caused the City of Belize and Belize Tourism Board to recently step in to set up regulatory mechanisms to ensure both tourists and locals benefit without hassles.

Near the tourism village is the historic Baron Bliss Lighthouse, named after a famous benefactor whose death is commemorated in a national holiday on March 9th. Outside of the tourism village area, visitors can purchase handmade wood furniture made by the Mennonite community and many kinds of craft items from the National Handicraft Center, (adjacent to the tourism village) as well as from the vendors who congregate near the Belize Commercial Center.
At the foot of the swing Bridge is the Marine Terminal and Museum, where an amazing collection of Belize' marine heritage is on display.

Over the bridge down past the business center is a landmark of the colonial period, the former Government House, now the Belize City House of Culture. It offers classes and seminars in activities like visual and performing arts, music, photography and ceramic art. A permanent exhibit consists of a Silverware and Glass Collection which features a wide variety of authentic silver pieces dating to late 17th and early 18th century, including Tureens, Teapots, Crystal Wine Glasses. There is also a Furniture Collection which features English domestic furniture of simple and complex design within the late 18th and early 19th centuries. The Government House itself is an exhibit, built in the early 1800's, it is a combination of Caribbean Vernacular and English Urban architecture.

Just across from the House of Culture is the historic St. John's Cathedral where, between 1812 to 1824 several Mosquito Coast kings were crowned. This is the oldest Anglican Church in Central America. It was constructed of red brick brought as ballast from European sailing ships.

Also on the attractive Southern Foreshore, sits the recently renovated Bliss Institute, named, like the Lighthouse, after an English Baron who visited Belize, fell in love with the country, and willed his $2 million fortune in trust for the Belizean people. For years it housed the Belize Arts Council, library and a museum of Mayan artifacts taken from archeological sites in Belize - its recent renovation sees its role as the primary performance arm of the Museum of Belize instead of the multi-purpose site it has traditionally been.

The Belizean government has made the restoration of Belize City, severely damaged by hurricanes in 1961 and 1978, a priority. It was Hurricane Hattie's destruction in 1961 that led to the eventual relocation of the capital inland to Belmopan by the middle of the 1970's. The recent spate of major hurricanes in 1998, 2000 and 2001 wrecked damage more to the district's cayes and rural communities than it did to the city. Additionally, the city has expanded into its "outskirts" over the past decade, and a number of suburb-type communities have emerged. The downtown business district houses most of the country's attorneys and accountants, many of whom are becoming specialists in Belize's growing offshore incorporation industry. Five major banks (Belize Bank, Atlantic Bank, Scotia Bank, Barclay's Bank and Alliance Bank) offer a full panoply of local and international banking services. There are numerous non-governmental organizations engaged in environmental and development work in Belize with headquarters in Belize City.

Several beautiful old colonial mansions on the waterfront have been converted into guest houses and hotels, such as the Bellevue Hotel, well known for its tavern and weekend entertainment. Belize City has many simple budget hotels, including the Mopan Hotel, located on Regent Street in the business district (the owners are great sources of information about anything Belizean, and go out of their way to assist travelers). The Bakadeer Inn, Grant's Guest House, Chateau Caribbean Hotel and The Great House are other popular hotels. Expensive luxury hotels such as the Radisson Fort George, The Princess Hotel and Casino and the Belize Biltmore/Best Western cater to international business travelers as well as tourists.

About 10 minutes from the Phillip S.W. Goldson International Airport is Belize River Lodge, a self-contained mahogany fishing lodge on the banks of the Old Belize River. The Lodge caters to fishing enthusiasts - specialty and variety fishing is easily arranged: snook, tarpon, permit, bonefish, barracuda, snapper and other species pose no problem and live-aboard fishing trips and vacation cruises are all part of the services offered. Belize River Lodge also offers river cruises, manatee-watching, wildlife tours and visits to Mayan ruin sites. It's a cozy atmosphere, served up in a fun and professional manner.
There are also several small nearby cayes (islands) that house self-contained resorts, such as the Cottage Colony Resort on historic St. George's Cay, which offers full dive services. Caye Caulker and San Pedro (see separate articles) are well-known tourist destinations. They are a fifteen-minute plane ride away or an hour's boat ride by water taxi from the Marine Terminal located at the foot of the downtown Swing Bridge.

With its two airports and many car rental agencies, Belize City is an excellent starting point for visitors wishing to explore the country by car (or 4-wheel drive). There are several major tourist attractions an hour's drive or less from Belize City, such as the culturally rich Gales Point Manatee Lagoon, the Belize Zoo, Monkey Bay Wildlife Sanctuary, Crooked Tree Wildlife Sanctuary, the Bermudian Landing Community Baboon Sanctuary, and the Mayan ruin site at Altun Ha which is also near to the Maruba Resort and Jungle Spa. Horseback riding, canoeing, jungle trails, personal training, spa facilities and tours to just about anywhere in Belize can readily be arranged at Maruba Resort and Jungle Spa.

Nightlife and Dinning


Larger hotels in Belize City offer regular entertainment and famous "happy hours." The Princess Hotel and Casino has a different buffet every night indoors as well as seaside dining at its Calypso Restaurant. The casino itself features more than 400 slot machines, blackjack, roulette and Caribbean stud poker, as well as dancers and late night activity. Additionally, the hotel has two cinemas. Nearby, Chef Bob's Bar and Grill serves up something tasty every day. The Belize Biltmore/Best Western and the Radisson Fort George restaurants are also popular, and both these hotels also offer regular local band music, as does the Bellevue Hotel, particularly on weekends - holidays will always have these hotels featuring major entertainment, often with both local, regional and international artists.

Fort Street Restaurant, The Wet Lizard, Smokey Mermaid, a recently opened steakhouse, a novel stone-grill restaurant addition at the Radisson Fort George Hotel, and the Chateau Caribbean Hotel all surround the Tourism Village and offer an exotic array of dishes. Some other cuisine-specific restaurants exist, which offer Lebanese and Indian food, and numerous Chinese restaurants abound. Belizean food - in a range from the national dish of rice and beans, to Spanish favorites of escabeche and chimole, to Garifuna hudut and Creole sere, boil-up and cow foot soup can be had in several restaurants that dot the downtown area.

Popular district dining sports include Cheers and JB's on the Western Highway between Belize City and Belmopan, and Maruba Resort and Jungle Spa in Maskall Village along the old Northern Highway.

Gales Point, about 25 miles south of Belize City, is accessible by boat or by car. Either way is a wonderful opportunity to view wildlife. The boat option will take you through canals, a river and two lagoons, and your best opportunity for manatee-watching in Belize. A secluded beachfront cabana resort, The Shores, offers accommodations, meals and a variety of activities, including diving, snorkeling, fishing, river boating and inland tours.


The Belize Zoo and Tropical Education Center

The Belize Zoo, which is located about 30 miles west of Belize City was founded in 1983 by Sharon Mazola, who had been hired to manage a menagerie of local animals collected for a wildlife filmmaker who had come to Belize to make nature films. The filmmaker lost his funding, and the animals were suddenly out of a "job" with nowhere to go. Because they had lived for some time in captivity, they were ill equipped to survive in the wild. Matola, who had grown to love the wild cats, peccaries and other animals, began what has now become the much visited Belize Zoo and Tropical Education Center.

She began by putting up signs in front of the cages and publicizing the zoo and asking for donations to feed the animals. She also began visiting schools to show slides of the animals and issue invitations for teachers to bring the children on field trips to the zoo at no charge. The Belizean public responded with interest and a zoo was born!

The Belize Zoo is unlike any other zoo you may have seen. Each species of animal (there are over 100 animals resident at the zoo) lives in a lush jungle habitat. In front of each habitat area is a hand-lettered and painted sign with a message from the resident animal describing the animal and reminding the visitor of the need to protect its existence in the wild.

The zoo is a favorite tourist destination, but its primary constituency is the children of Belize, several hundred of whom visit daily free of charge. All visitors receive personal guided tours from the well-trained, enthusiastic staff. The zoo's public education program includes slide shows, children's books and a lecture series, all aimed at developing public support for wildlife conservation. The zoo has developed a captive breeding program aimed an ensuring the continuation of its healthy animal population, which is frequently augmented by donations of animals who used to be someone's pet. Some animals are being bred with the intention of releasing the offspring into the wild.

In the early days of the Zoo, April the Tapir became a well-known and beloved resident whose birthday was yearly celebrated by hundreds of schoolchildren at the Zoo. The tapir is Belize's national animal - of the four species of tapir in the world, the one found in Belize is Baird's Tapir, often called the mountain cow. Also popular with both Belizeans and tourists are the various wild cats (jaguars, pumas, ocelots, margays and jaguarundis).

In 1993, after several years of planning, fund-raising, and building, the zoo moved to its new location--a 1,000-acre site constructed with a master plan donated by an architectural firm in Seattle, Washington. The zoo has an adjacent picnic area, an outdoor amphitheater, a library, a gift shop and the adjacent Tropical Education Center, with nature trails, a library, a guest dormitory, presentation rooms and an office.

Adult tourists pay $7.50 US for admission (1/2 price for kids) to the zoo and a personalized guided tour. The zoo is accessible by car and by bus. Many package tours include a visit to the zoo in their itineraries, particularly those tours with Cayo District road destinations. Visitors should bring insect repellant, camera and film.

If you're an animal lover interested in becoming a member of the Belize Zoo, you can contact the Belize Zoo at P.O. Box 474, Belize City, Belize. Membership includes copies of the "Belize ZooLetter," which keeps supporters abreast of zoo events and plans. Several membership categories are available.

Monkey Bay Wildlife Sanctuary

The Monkey Bay Wildlife Sanctuary is located off the Western Highway a mile and a half past the Belize Zoo and Tropical Education Center turnoff. It is a privately owned 1,070 acre reserve. Its ecosystems include pine and palm savanna, tropical forest, freshwater wetlands and lagoons. Monkey Bay is a haven for bird-watchers (over 250 species of birds have been sighted, including toucans, parrots, storks and the redstart warbler) and jaguar, puma, deer, peccary, coatimundi, crocodile and iguana have also been sighted within the reserve.

The reserve is financially supported by conservation organizations in Belize, the United States and Japan. Their projects include an environmental outreach program for Belizean schoolchildren, an archeological excavation along the Sibun River, and the planting of native fruits and hardwood seedlings. There is a field research station for visiting scientists.

There are two miles of river frontage, including a secluded beach for swimming, picnicking and launching canoes. Admission to the sanctuary is free; campsites can be arranged by writing to Monkey Bay Wildlife Sanctuary, P.O. Box 187, Belmopan.
Altun Ha Mayan Ruin Site

The Mayan ruin site of Altun Ha is 31 miles north of Belize City; via a right-hand turnoff from the Western Highway at 18.9 miles. Altun Ha is one of Belize most well-known ruin sites; excavation has been going on since 1957. There are restrooms and picnic areas for visitors, who are charged a small entry fee to the site. The site covers approximately 25 square miles, most of which is jungle, and is a good place for birdwatchers, who can venture onto several jungle trails branching out from main plaza.

There are thirteen structures surrounding the two main plazas; archeologists have uncovered 250 structures to date. The Sun God Temple is the tallest building, rising 59 feet above the plaza floor. Archeologists found over 300 jade jewelry pieces at the site, much of which was found in the Temple of the Green Tomb. Near the right hand of the man buried there - who must have been someone of great importance - was found a solid jade head weighing nine pounds and six inches in height. This treasure, which is the largest jade carving found at any Mayan site, is on display at the Museum of Belize.

Researchers working with a community of Mayan families who have been living near Altun Ha for several centuries estimate that the city was constructed 1,500 to 2,000 years ago. A trail from the ruins leads to what was once a large reservoir, created when Mayan engineers re-routed a small creek and dug and plastered a deep hole. Archeologists have determined that the city was destroyed and rebuilt several times, but are unable to determine whether its eventual abandonment was the result of a decrease in the available water supply, a war, or a peasant revolt against the religious-political-military hierarchy.
Crooked Tree Wildlife Sanctuary and Village

The Crooked Tree Wildlife Sanctuary is 33 miles northeast of Belize City, via a left-hand turnoff at the sign located at mile 31.2 on the Northern Highway. Crooked Tree, a world-class birdwatcher destination, was established in 1984 with funding from several environmental organizations, and is maintained by the Belize Audubon Society, which gratefully accepts contributions from nature lovers worldwide. The sanctuary is six miles long and three miles wide, and is actually an island connected to the mainland by a mile-long causeway. It's made up of a network of inland lagoons, swamps and waterways, some of which can be traversed by boats (during Belize's logging days, the waterways were used to float logs out to sea for shipment overseas).
Crooked Tree is home to hundreds of bird species, including the snowy egret, great egret, snail kite, black bellied whistling and Muscovy duck, kingfisher, osprey, black-collared hawk, white ibis, American coot, northern jacana, green-backed heron, green-winged teal, roseate spoonbills, olivaceous cormorants, and Yucatan jay. The sanctuary is also a nesting place for the extremely rare Jabiru stork. Black howler monkeys, coatimundi, iguana, Morelet crocodiles and several species of turtles reside in the sanctuary. An occasional jaguar has even been spotted.
Guided tours can be arranged by your hotel, most local travel agents or by contacting the Belize Audubon Society office in Belize City, at 29 Regent Street; the telephone number is +501-227-7369. They can direct you to hired boats and guides to take you to the lagoon area. Ask your guide to periodically kill the engine and allow the boat to float quietly.
Crooked Tree Village, with a population of approximately 800, is an island community of small farmers and fishermen. Cashew farming is an industry for the community; and a Cashew Festival is held in early May each year. The festival offers music, dances, arts, crafts, and food, with an emphasis on gourmet cashew creations such as cashew jellies and wine. Inexpensive bed-and-breakfast accommodations are available in the homes of village residents; these can be arranged through the Belize Audubon Society as well. A few small medium-priced resorts have been built near the sanctuary, including Crooked Tree Resort and Crooked Tree Bird's Eye View Resort.
Bermudian Landing Community Baboon Sanctuary

The baboon sanctuary (so named because in Belize, black howler monkeys are called "baboons" even though they have little in common with African baboons) is off the Northern Highway, via a left-hand turnoff just past milepost 13; it's about 8 miles west, including a Belize river bridge crossing. It's a short trip from Belize City and can easily be combined with a visit to the Crooked Tree Wildlife Sanctuary.
Black howlers get their name from their distinctive (an understatement!) call. They are especially vocal in the morning, at bedtime, and according to residents, before a major rainstorm. They live mainly in the trees, but visitors to the sanctuary often see them scampering along the ground; they have become comfortable with residents and apparently feel safe enough to approach. They live in "troops" of four to eight monkeys.
The Community Baboon Sanctuary is a typical example of Belizean grass-roots conservation efforts. It was created in 1985, after zoologists studying black howlers found that although their population was rapidly shrinking due to habitat destruction and hunting elsewhere in Central America, the Belizean howlers in the Bermudian Landing area were thriving, although they were becoming a target for Guatemalan refugees seeking food and poachers who hoped to sell captured howlers as pets. The zoologists began meeting with local residents to talk about the possibility of creating a preserve for the howlers. Over 100 village farming families from seven villages have signed a pledge promising to refrain from cutting down howler tree habitat and food sources.
The reserve encompasses a 20-mile stretch along the Belize River. The howlers have thrived and troops are being moved to the Cockscomb Basin Wildlife Sanctuary (jaguar preserve) and the Shipstern Nature Reserve, where the local population was wiped out by habitat destruction caused by hurricanes. Local residents and zoologists have noted a resurgence of other wildlife as well in the reserve area, including jaguars, ocelots, paca, deer and river turtles.
The cooperating villages have developed a fledgling tourist industry, thus proving that sustainable development can be profitable and that a wildlife refuge can indeed exist in a populated area. Visitors can arrange through the Community Baboon Sanctuary Office for a tour guide, meals and overnight stays with a local family. You can jut show up or check with the Belize Audubon Society or Belize Tourism Board for further directions. Campsites are available.


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